Natural Born Killer

Laikipia Wilderness in Kenya boasts, perhaps, the greatest concentration of leopards on the planet.

It is a magical place, the Ewaso Narok River running through it.

Painted dogs, hippos, elephants, giraffes, many of the greatest eagles of Africa. There is something here for everyone.

I was here for the leopards.

Specifically, leopards at night.

In all of my prior safari adventures, regardless of location, the game was over once the sun set.

Here, it’s just starting.  Nighttime is when the leopard hunts, and the prospect of night drives amongst the land’s most deadly predator was why I was here.

We claimed the high ground an hour before sunset. Dan, the lead guide, our Maasai spotter, and myself.

There is a legendary young female black leopard in these parts, now world famous, named Giza. She was our main focus, and not long after dark, our Maasai guide spotted her.

Let me just say, the Maasai are without equal in the bush. Their instincts, eyesight, and knowledge are otherworldly. Many a time he would point and in Swahili say, “hapo” meaning “there”.  Sometimes, even with the spotlight, it would take us some time to see the leopard crouching, stalking its prey.

It was Giza, and she was absolutely ambivalent to the light. The game was on.

Our spotter also pointed out that there was a dik dik (very small antelope), unaware of Giza’s presence and just 50 meters or so away.

It’s a miserable life for the dik dik.
Imagine spending every moment of every night knowing you’re being hunted by the stealthiest, pound for pound, strongest predator in the bush.

The guide was very careful not to disturb the hunting and instructed the spotter to cut the light.

We sat, waited, and listened.

The silence was maddening. The anticipation, I can’t adequately explain.

And then it happened, so close, so quick and SO sudden!

The clock was now ticking for Giza, for she was not the only leopard in the area. Far from it…and the sounds of the kill, although quick and certain, alert all who would be near enough to hear.

Unfortunately for Giza, another, much larger male leopard was near. Before she could get her prize up a tree and eaten, she would be met by an adversary that would take advantage of Giza’s kill and claim it for himself.

The Maasai spotter made us aware of the big male approaching, and approaching fast!

Giza, to her credit, put on a helluva display of teeth and growls and even threw a few right and left hooks. Unfortunately for her, this match was nearly as one-sided as Giza’s versus the dik dik.

She was left with no choice but to relinquish her kill and carry on to find another.

I can still hear the sounds of bones cracking and flesh being ripped. The power and voracity were terrifying.

He, in just minutes, would eat everything. Meat, bones, fur. Nothing was left. 

NOTHING.

I had just been witness to “THE Natural Born Killer”.